Tuesday, 3 November 2009

Defining me...

So what is it that defines me? I think if you asked any of my friends it would be the search for adventure, the love for the outdoors and the passion i have for climbing and mountaineering. The last 4 years have really been what i consider to have defined me. I found the right direction in life for me and had an amazing time along the way. I have climbed some great routes, in great places, with great people. So this is what it is all about, getting out there and cranking it hard on real rock, trad gear, pushing it and having a laugh along the way. There is Too much to put into a blog that is reminiscing over years gone by so i will write a little insert about the final, and possibly best way i ended those fours years before departing on the next big adventure. It was dubbed "Peak Attack"

Peak attack was the best way i could have ended my climbing in the UK before travelling to NZ. It all started with a crazy phone call between me and Matt...
"Lakes this weekend?"
"Nah, feel like The Peak, still a few routes there i am desperate to do before leaving"
"Which ones?"
"Flying Butress Direct, Chequers Butress, The Brain, Easter Island and The Sloth"
"Hmmm....Quite a list....Quite spread out to!"
"Aye, fancy hitting them all in a day....??"
"........................Sure, why not?!"

So that was it, plan was set. Starting out at Stanage on Flying Butress Direct this was a stiff route to jump straight on to and involved mild defeat on the heel hook and rock over that nearly bust Dan's ankle before victory was ours and the first tick of the day had been achieved.

Hopping into the car we set off for the next crag, Froggatt where Chequers Butress was on the list. Arriving to find someone already gearing up, we set out for Three Pebble Slab which Andy sent as his first E1 which rocked. Back to Chequers we hopped on and flew across the face on finger locks and bomber nut slots to the arete, marvelling at the jug before cranking over the top to finish one of the best routes in the Peak.
Curbar is just down to way from Froggatt so we chucked on the bags and set off towards Curbar edge. The guidebook says Curbar starts 50m past the End of Froggatt. OK, this may be the case but our route, The Brain did not. Bashing through bracken and trees we eventually found the right butress and hopped up. The start was amazing, a completely gearless slab with gritstone flakes the like i have never seen anywhere before. Up this is was time to tackle the main butress itself, before moving out onto the arete to finish in a glorious and airy position with the sun beating down.

Four routes down, we were motoring, just nip down to the Southern Peak and it was in the bag. Easter Island was next on the list, an intimidating limestone pinnacle which once on is totally committing. Matt took the lead, making a great show of battling up the face before stepping round into the groove to take a monster lob ripping out his top two cams.... Not defeated, he was back on and sent to upper section in great style. Light was fading at this point and setting up the abseil darkness had descended. After a fairly scary free hanging abseil, we made it to the ground only to find the ropes had become jammed when we tried to pull them down. Matt took the hit and prussiked up 35m of dynamic rope to free them. Finally both down on the ground with both ropes too, we took the decision that although The Sloth in pitch black would be great fun, it wasn't to be. A beer in the local pub ended a fantastic day and made for planning the mornings escapades to get out and send the Sloth first thing, which was what happened.
An awesome route that pulls through possibly the most famous roof climb in the UK, to climb in the handholds of greatness was a really good feeling...

So less than 24hours after starting out, we had climbed ultra-classic 6 routes from all over the Peak District on 5 different crags. I could not have asked for a better way to say goodbye to the Peak District that had kept me captivated for 4years




If i can find trips, friends and experiences half as good as those here in the UK, i will have the most amazing time in NZ i think...




































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